MeatBlog

Once a year it’s Christmas and here at meat club we need to celebrate it, in the best way possible. Now with such expectation can come disappointment, you know, the way you used to think a party or gig would be the best ever, for it to never hit the heights.

So after some courting, and input from an inside source we managed to get our date with the Bistrotheque and their special private room. Such a treat for the festive season. If you haven’t been to Bistrotheque you have a missed a treat, you really have. It’s in East London, nestled in the factories, just off the Hackney Road in a New York style warehouse. Finding it can be a challenge and it’s very easy to drive past.

Back to the meat

To start we had their excellent Steak Tartare, it’s something Bistrotheque is proud of and rightly so. It was made from Long Horn Scottish rump. Very very tasty.

For our next set of courses, our chef Tom Collins and Shaun decided to go a off menu and serve up two Hoggets. Cue a brief explanation of what a Hogget actually  is and how it relates to a lamb and a mutton:

• Lamb — a young sheep under 12 months of age which does not have any permanent incisor teeth in wear.
• Hogget — a young male sheep or maiden ewe having no more than two permanent incisors in wear.
• Mutton — a female (ewe) or castrated male (wether) sheep having more than two permanent incisors in wear.

Our hoggets were 18 month old Black Face hoggets from a farm called Fooks Bros in Dorset. They are known for their meat being tender and relatively mild even when the sheep are approaching mutton age. A key factor in choosing older meat.

The hoggets were served in a selection of cuts & dishes (see above). The pressed belly was incredible, in fact it was so good I’m sure it should be illegal. The confit shoulder was a thing to behold, and probably the best piece of lamb I have ever eaten – tender beyond belief. The leg was gargantuan and carnal, great for attacking with your teeth. And the kidney pie was fantastic, with its quality pastry be eulogized by many a member.

Then came the desert – a cheese called Beenleigh Blue. It’s a sheeps cheese made in Sharpham Barton in Devon and has a salty, full, rich and sweet flavor. It is often said to have a similarity in taste to a fino sherry.

As the evening drew on, our 33 members and guests became full of Christmas cheer and joyful noise. Only once where was asked to perhaps lower the volume which at that point was a fair call. For we had the passing of the Chef’s Knife – a beautiful piece of hand engineered metallurgy with 101 layers of folded forged nickel stainless steel. Yes its very sharp.

And so with that, came to the end of my Presidency of London’s greatest dining and meat appreciation club. Thank you Bistrotheque for hosting a great evening and thank you Meat Club for some amazing memories.

In 2010 Meat Club redefined the Breakfast. When I say redefined I really mean took it by the scruff of the neck, gave it a good shake and then created something that should be rated quadruple X and carry a Government Health warning.

First came Roast with what was described as Top Kill for your Arteries and was immense, so when the call went out to the Boisdale Of Bishopsgate they were understandably worried about how they could compete.

But oh they did compete. Take a look:

Yes that’s for breakfast, all before 9am and yes it’s a lot. So any of you city boys are wanting a marvelous breakfast in the City Mile – i’d suggest you do some polite groveling to the Manager, ask nicely and get yourselves some of this.

The starter if you can call it that for a Breakfast, of oysters, haggis and a bloody Mary was delightful. Enough for any man to start the day.

BUT and its a big but, because this is what came next, for each person. The plates are huge, make no mistake this is a lot of food. Click to view and its full glory.

The bone marrow fritter was divine, the bavette a treat, the black pudding amazing, the scotch egg scintillating. The galloon of orange juice to wash it down was very necessary. I think we might have been a little slow that day…

No wonder those large Scottish chaps can toss the caber if they’re eating this before a highland games. Immense.

So much for German efficiency.

You see Herr Flade, a relatively new comer to Meat Club was tasked with writing this review. Even though he threatened to write it in German following the abuse he received for not finishing his meat. He has still not managed to complete it (Feb 2011), so you’ll have to make do with this short resume from me.

Meat Club takes time, and that’s something I’ve not always had lots of. So it can be a bit of a concern when you do things via phone and email rather than face-to-face when pulling the plans together. So when 18 carnivores turn up brandishing their meat notes it’s a bit of stress when the restaurant hasn’t seen them despite sending them through days before on email.

Despite an initial panic on both sides, the food was quickly served and enjoyed. I have to say their sausages and black pudding are something else. Very very tasty.

Once our meat urges had been sated with the quality fare we went for a tour of the Asador (the big open wooden stove) with some cooking advice from Chef included.

To finish and as a mark of respect to our Gor Gor, we had sorbet. It seemed the right thing to do. Ooh and we text bombed him to which he was most pleased, addressing my good self in his reply as El Presicunte. Tony D was less poetic, simply replying a few days later from his sick bed.

Further proof that we continue to eat quality meat in between Meat Club’s can be evidenced by this little feast at the excellent Maze Grill. We’ve been here before thanks to the connections of Remy TV and sampled a selection of their fine steaks. So this visit was to stock up on tasty flavours and remind ourselves just how good their beef is.

Prior to eating you are shown the meat. Awesome. A quick test of which cut is which, resulted in a 3 out of 5 score for this meat club member, which isn’t really good enough. Must try harder next time.

To begin there was a cheeky little starter – a meaty taste to wet the main appetite. A Terrine of confit duck, ham hock and foie gras which was the the perfect way to commence.

Then came the steak.

If you have never been to Maze Grill you must try the Wagyu ‘9th grade’ Gold style – it has such a distinct taste. The fat is just something else, and something to truly behold. It’s not cheap but this is 9th Grade (the Japanese only export 5th grade and below) so it’s very good gear. Super tasty.

Our other steak was the Creekstone prime U.S.D.A. corn fed, aged 35 days – which isn’t quite as distinct as the Wagyu but is very good. In fact I’m licking my lips just thinking about how good it was.

And of course it ended with a clean block. Loving washed down with an amazing Red, hand picked by our Sommelier.

You might think that when we’re not attending Meat Club, we’re out eating meet. Well you’d be right.

For reasons too secret or dull to mention here, I with a few other meat lovers went to the Hix for a bit of Tuesday feasting. Although some sea food and vegetable was consumed – we did heartily indulge in some tasty marrow, a pocket sized suckling pig and several chops & steaks.

The pig was tasty and not wanting to waste anything a good chunk of the brain & the whole tongue went too. At the end there was a pile of clean bones – a sure sign of a successful meaty evening.

Thank you Tommy.

A bitter sweet affair. Gor Going Gone was the bitter… fruit engorged Middle White pork the sweet. And sweeeeeeeeeeet it was… oh god yes.

Lets deal with the food first. Now this chophouse is a fine establishment indeed and they treated us brilliantly, but it’s hard to ignore it’s location in the centre of what much of the world believes is the new axes of evil. We even learnt of the network of tunnels under Paternoster, presumably for the hedge fund bastards to reach their underground monorails which turn into submarines when hitting the Thames as they escape the imploding world. Too far…? Shall I just focus on the meat? Oh, OK.

We had the rare task of choosing starters, the steak Tartare was the obvious Meat Club choice and good it was (I nicked some off Dave B’s plate – cheers mate, and no it doesn’t make us gay). The roughly cracked egg shell holding the single yolk a thing of beauty in the centre of the meat circle of delicious raw cowflesh. I had the pigeon breast. Good but bloodless.

Then came the Sow. Oh blessed animal which lived off fallen fruit in Englands finest groves purely so it could be slaughtered and bled dry for our greedy pleasure. I’m so glad it did. The quantity might not have been perfect for the send off of Gor (did he have 3 plates of it lined up?) but the crackling was cracking and the fat was… phat. Truly lovely.

There was decent wine (the Italian was the choice…Aussie Merlot people!),and couple of bottles of Grahams Port went down nicely. The underground meatvaults got for juices flowing nicely, especially the look inside a couple of 200 litre stock pots which bubble day and night to make fine meat sauces. I want one. No, two. The highlight for me was when Chef mentioned that they have the occaisional spit roast in the meatlocker. I think he learnt that such phrases can’t be used with impunity in front of a meat men crowd.

There was a first timer amongst us.: Pete Potrella is welcome… but his unwillingness to eat the fatty portions of his pork (WTF!!!???) was slightly worrying. I think he needs a guiding hand as he makes his journey to jackethood.

The Simon Waterfall award went, quite rightly, to Simon Waterfall. Once again he was not present and probably lying naked in a lettuce field with his salad club flagellating him with leaves of Chard. The Jacket of honour went to the splendidly Bearded (he has stuck resolutely while so many in the club haven’t) Matt Wells. This was for finding a glazed breakfast for Gor to take to America to show them how it should be done. Well played sir, well played.

So to Gor himself. We are hardy Men of Meat, who have little time or sympathy for high emotion (it distracts us from the business of eating fleash) but every one of us felt a twinge as Gor bid his farewell. I get the impression that he lives meat 24/7. In many ways we all aspire on our monthly sojourns to be Gor. We will always be mere shadows of his status as the Viking of Beef. His speech was short but perfect: ‘The meat club was always about good meat in good company’. We will miss yours. We, who are about to gorge, salute you.

ED R

Yes, it was amazing. So amazing we forgot to take pictures of the food or excellent accompanying wine.

All we have are these tinted memento’s of what was a quite astonishing feast, as they say you had to be there, really you had to be there…

If you’re ever in West London and can spare a few hours, book a table, because a Michelin starred pub is a wondrous thing.

Here are excerpts from the Meat Notes:

Fallow deer came back into season on the 12th August and are in prime condition. All of the venison comes from Berkshire and was probably shot on either the Kirby or Henley Estates. From the outset, The Harwood Arms wanted to show off the versatility and deliciousness of venison.

Fallow are big herd deer, introduced by the Normans in the 10th century and have done very well. They posses long grain meat that is tender and succulent, supplying the Harwood’s wonderful paves and T bone steaks.

Venison at the Harwood is healthy, sustainable and humanely culled.

Deer stalking is hard work and very physical, and requires excellent fieldcraft and skill to outwit these challenging creatures. The goal is to get close enough (under 200yds) to kill instantly, thus is completely unstressed when killed… Wait until the deer is perfectly side on, presenting a clean shot. Then check the range, squeeze the trigger and the deer falls dead.

Our normal plan of attack is to book weeks in advance, request a special menu and be entertained by the finest food known to man. Occasionally (usually when the organisation is going a bit off) we like to turn up unannounced and flesh mob.

Now when 12 white jacketed men walk into a crowded restaurant we often turn a few heads – usually ones of bemusement and anger. But we’re a social bunch, presenting a welcoming and friendly face of carnivourism, to allay fears that we might in fact be cannibal club.

Turning up unannounced and ordering all the meat on the menu does have its down sides. Especially if the required dish is in limited supply. And yes you guessed it – this happened at the Rivington. Meaning jealous looks all around to those lucky enough to get the Salt Beef until we realised we should just order a main course as a starter. Roll on sweetbreads, liver, kidney, lamp chop and the odd burger (yes there was a bit too much green on the sweetbread).

Thankfully the main main course requirement was in plentiful supply – not surprisingly – steak cooked rare. Speyside flat-iron, Aberdeenshire T-Bone and Bannockburn rib – all excellent.

Even the first distinguished JACKET made an appearance – a sign of any great Meat Club evening.

So as the evening faded to a close the flesh mob had been a clear success and a few of our fellow dinners had some added meaty spice to their own evening entertainment – dinner party anecdotes for sure.

A few months ago the good proprietor of Roast (Borough market) offered a special breakfast his chef had cooked up. We are no strangers to Roast , who had given us a superlative 4th Birthday a few years ago, complete with a rendition of that meaty musical classic “I’m a sausage man“. So we knew this would be special. Not one to duck a challenge, we accepted. Our youthful zeal on what was an excellent sunny morning, held no foretelling of what was to come.

The first item alone was enough to fuel you for a day, believe.

And then several platters of this turn up, lovingly cooked with British Dripping, you know you have a MEAT FEAST. And it was even 8:30 in the morning.

Put simply it was and I quote:

Out of control

Top kill for your arteries

Artery damage. Thank you for my heart attack

Surely there is no greater salute to Meat Club’s higher purpose than booking an appointment for a cholesterol check après le repas.  Today I made that booking, and I make that salute!

That bacon steak was frankly out of control.

In future I will be approaching bacon steak meat challenges with the trepidation they deserve.  Five pints of water later, I’m still thirsty.

Phenomenal carnage this morning! The saddle back bacon was a feast in itself. I & my ruined gastrointestinal tract salute you Roast!

The whole event had been filmed by a Canadian TV Channel wanting to know what a real English Breakfast was – they certainly found out.

From the keyboard of the Beard

It was an unusual wedding invite. In both format (small and covered in pink glitter) as well as function. It asked for not only acceptance, but also a restaurant review. Given that the bride is a fully committed ‘please don’t use my side of the barbie’ vegetarian I felt I should relay tales of amazing butternut squash and pinenut soufflé. Or the latest attempts of the local curry house to turn spinach and potatoes into a meal worthy of praise.

Location and an attractive front window. Two golden rules of running a successful restaurant. So a place way our east with no visible signage would almost appear bound to fail. Except this is place is doing a roaring trade. The owners have transformed the ground floor into an exceptional private dining experience.

When this critic ate there his quest was meat they providers more than rose to it.

A warm shot of chorizo juice was followed by a giant size venison scotch egg. The yolk of the egg still magically liquid. These entrees had lured their devourers into a false sense of security.

We paused momentarily while an astronaut entered the room. One song and several gyrations later our red wine vision latched onto the fact we were witnessing a rather eccentric burlesque show.

And then the kitchen opened fire. Meat cannons aimed squarely down our gullets. Lambs heart stuffed with lambs liver a delectable surprise. Succulent, flavoursome, complex and challenging. What could man not achieve after such a feast?

The ensuing 28 day blackened steak seemed positively normal in comparison. On other occasions this would have been worthy of worship in it’s own right. On this occasion it took the role of sorbet to the previous, richer courses.

Light relief was then delivered in the form of a Charlie Chaplin lookalike. Once cane and hat were removed and the music kicked those of us with our wits still intact into a moment of glorious realisation. Burlesque and a plate of full bodied English cheese.

Only one way to top that and make sure that most of the next day was spent in the gout clinic. More red wine, chocolate covered bacon. And a go in an astronaut’s suit.

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